Trishul from Bedini Bugyal
Elevation 7,120 metres (23,360 ft)
Location Bageshwar, Uttarakhand, India
Range Kumaun Himalaya
Prominence 1,616 m (5,302 ft)
Coordinates 30°18'46?N, 79°46'38?E
First ascent June 12, 1907 by Thomas George Longstaff, A. Brocherel, H. Brocherel, Karbir
Easiest route Northeast flank/north ridge: snow/glacier climb
Trisul is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western Kumaun, in the central part of Uttarakhand state of India, near the Bageshwar district. They form the southeast corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, and are located about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda Devi itself. Trisul is named after the trident of Lord Shiva. The main peak, Trisul I, is notable for being the first peak over 7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907.
Description of the massif and neighboring peaks
The three peaks are named Trisul I, Trisul II, and Trisul III. The massif is a north-south ridge, with Trisul I at the north end and Trisul III at the south. Trishul is best viewed from Kausani and Bedini Bugyal.
Nanda Ghunti lies a few kilometers to the northwest, while Mrigthuni is just to the southeast.
Mountain Height (m) Height (ft) Coordinates Prominence (m) First ascent
Trisul I 7,120 23,359 30°18'46?N, 79°46'38?E 1616 1907
Trisul II 6,690[5] 21,949 30°17'24?N, 79°46'12?E[6] <200[7] 1960
Trisul III 6,007 19,708 30°15'00?N, 79°46'12?E <200[7] 1960
Climbing history
Trisul I
Trisul from KausaniT. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focussing on the western and southern sides. He returned in 1907 with two other Britons, three Alpine guides, and a number of Gurkhas. They ascended through the Rishiganga valley, to the north of the peak, onto the Trisul Glacier, which lies on the east side. From there they climbed the northeast flank to the north ridge, reaching the summit on June 12.
Early expeditions to the peak had problems due to fearful porters, who refused to climb the mountain, as they considered it sacred.[citation needed]
Routes on the west face and south ridge of Trisul I have also been climbed. The west face was first ascended in 1976; this was the first ascent of the main summit not using the first-ascent route.
Trisul II and III
Trisul II and Trisul III were first climbed in 1960 by a Yugoslav team. They climbed from the Bidalgwar glacier, achieving the summit of Trisul II via the southern ridge and Trisul III via the north ridge.
Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the three peaks in 1987, and two members paraglided from the summit.
Trivia
Alex Kunaver was a member of the first Yugoslav team which climbed Trisul in 1960. In 1987, his daughter Vlasta Kunaver climbed Trisul I and was one of the paragliders.
Access
The Trisul massif can be accessed via the following route: Almora - Kausani - Garur- Gwaldam - Debal - Bagargad - Wan - Bedini Bugyal - Kelva Vinayak - Roopkund - Trisul.
